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Phnom Penh

5 Ways to Eat a Mango!

15 April 2008 by Nathalie Abejero 1 Comment


Typically existing in two races, the mango finds its roots in Burma and South India, and in Southeast Asia particularly the Philippines.

Mango season is one of my favorite things about living in Asia! All the charm and sensuous sweetness that is the essence of the tropics– in one fruit. Mangoes signal a reprieve from the hot season, heralding the summer monsoons. It kicks off the festive Khmer New Year and launches the summer fruit bounty: rambutan, lychee, mangosteen and durian. Long bamboo sticks with a cage-like trap at the end ensure reach into the highest cluster (these evergreen trees grow to 60 feet tall).

Street vendors now walk their bicycle-loads of mangoes, and market sellers pile them on mats and in baskets. National roads are lined with stands stacked high, selling for as little as 1000Riel or $0.25 per kg. Because techniques to increase mango yields are so successful, and growers don’t have the capacity to export the fruit, its prices are largely insulated from inflation and the depreciating dollar.

So what to do with all those mangoes?

1. Eat it raw, it’s packed with nutrients! Khmer taste buds are inclined towards bitter and salty flavors, so a popular way to eat it here is unripe, sliced and dipped into a mixture of salt and chili. But many of us prefer it melt-in-your-mouth golden sweet and custardy!

2. Toss cubes of ripe sweet mango into your favorite curry for a smack of fresh tropical sweetness.

3. Make a Mango Chutney and serve with brie on a cheese platter or with grilled chicken or fish. From the Food Network:

2 1/2 cups diced mangos
1 (1-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger
1 Scotch bonnet pepper, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
1/2 cup raisins
Freshly ground black pepper

Place all ingredients in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer until thick, about 25 minutes, stirring often to keep from sticking. Let cool, and store in an airtight container.

4.
For a sumptuous dessert pair it with the decadent richness of coconut by making Sticky Rice and Mango (Recipe by Sophat). This combination of the fresh sweetness of mango with the rich creaminess of coconut milk is really a fabulous treat. Sticky rice is a staple to Laos and Thailand. Sticky Rice and Mango is credited generally to southern Thailand where sticky rice is served with mango as a dessert, with condensed or coconut milk poured over it.

1 1/2 cups sticky rice
1 1/2 cups canned coconut milk
1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste
2 to 4 ripe mangoes, depending on size, peeled, pitted, sliced.

(To make your own coconut milk: Take a cup of unsweetened shredded dried coconut and stir in two cups of boiling water. Let sit for a few minutes then strain with a cheesecloth to extract all the liquid. Sweeten to taste ~around 3Tbsp~ with white sugar. This is much better than canned coconut, but the latter can be substituted. Set aside.)

Steam the rice (this needs less water than regular rice) and set aside to cool for half an hour or so.

In a pan, gently warm coconut milk with sugar and salt until they dissolve. Stir in half the coconut milk mixture over the warm sticky rice. Divide sweetened rice to individual serving bowls. Add mango slices. Pour the rest of the coconut milk over the mango. Serve.

5. Whip up a Mango Lassi (Recipe by K Kelly). Lassis are a tasty shake, good as a filling snack on those hot days. It’s a traditional North Indian beverage, and it’s found in ancient Indian texts. Yogurt sweetened with honey is still used in Hindu rituals.

2 cups milk
1 individual container plain yogurt
2 mangoes, diced
2 tsp honey

Mix all in a blender. Serves 2.

And if you have an event coming up that requires a cake, mango complements chocolate very nicely. It’s also excellent paired with coconut, passion fruit or taro in a moist layered cake, with mango incorporated into the icing. I unfortunately am not a good baker and have only had cakes professionaly catered, so can’t offer a recipe. If anyone has a good one I’m game to try!


There are over 1000 varieties, ranging from a deep golden yellow to green to red. Svay teethai and svay kailchun in Cambodia are known to be sweet.


One of many fruit sellers at Psar Toul Tumpung (Russian Market), with pre-season harvests.

Filed Under: Life Tagged With: Cambodia, mango, mango lassi, Phnom Penh, sticky rice and mango

Streetlife: A Man’s World?

24 February 2008 by Nathalie Abejero 1 Comment

Finding a dependable, safe motorbike driver (motodup) is a difficult feat, even in Phnom Penh where an excess of drivers roam the streets, ranging from the unemployed college graduate to new migrants from the provinces. Oum Chanton, a familiar face in Boeng Keng Kang, has been getting her passengers safely to their destination for seven years.

It is an unusual choice of vocation for a woman, but motodup-ing suits Oum Chanton just fine. Occasionally driving a moto as a side job in the year 2000, Chanton discovered that it offered steady wages and flexibility. As a single mother who is also supporting a younger sister and mother, it gradually became the main source of income for her family. She soon found herself driving even up to the day that she gave birth to her youngest son, Chandy, now 5.

Safety issues
This line of work is not without hardship. Chanton’s 14-hour days start at around 6am, seven days a week. Besides full-time exposure to the elements, reckless drivers share the streets. She has to be on constant alert of bag snatchers targeting her passengers. When hired for the night she sometimes waits on dark secluded streets until late.

She often overhears unkind comments from the hordes of territorial male drivers on her routes. They feel she is stealing potential customers from them. There is little regard for her from both her peers and the general population because people are unaccustomed to women having such a job.

At first the difficulties intimidated her, particularly safety issues on the farther routes or late in the night. Now she concentrates on doing her work well, taking care of her passengers by driving carefully. In this way she is able to support her family.

The helmeted Chanton also takes her own safety seriously. “Everyone should use one for safety while riding on a moto,” she says.

No job for a woman?
Asked to describe herself, Chanton replies that she is a strong woman. While the more “appropriate” jobs for women of her skill level, such as waiting or cleaning, have their own hardships, she found them dull. Her earning potential was also greater as a motodup. Experience as a single mother and the difficulties she overcame in her career as a motodup have made her critical of the typical views of women. Strength and independence are assets she feels are not yet appreciated by the more traditional mindsets.

This is the reason for her preference to work in the popular expat district of Boeng Keng Kang. Chanton began driving passengers around when she lived there. Soon it became difficult to keep pace with the escalating cost of living in Phnom Penh, and she was forced to move her family across the Japanese bridge to a small space in Chruy Chungvar.

When she attempted to work in the nearby areas she found that fellow Khmers – even the women – were more comfortable taking the traditional male motodup than going with her. Because foreigners are open to the idea of a female driving a mototaxi she is able to get more business there.

Determined that her two sons, Kunthy and Chandy, have better opportunities, this motivates her through her days. One day when she retires from motodup-ing, she wants to run a breakfast shop or sell items from her house. But this is far in the future as her family often lives from day to day.

Ultimately her goal is very simple. “I want to earn enough to feed my family every day, and to make sure that my sons never have to work as a motodup.”
AsiaLIFE Phnom Penh, March 2008

P.S.
Without a functioning public transportation system, many rely on motobike transportation.

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: Cambodia, motodop, Phnom Penh

Things to See at Night in Phnom Penh

13 October 2007 by Nathalie Abejero 4 Comments

Back home the great outdoors is cast in a peaceful sheen after a good snow. Here in Phnom Penh the night-time glow of a few streetlights or the occasional passing vehicle blurs the rough edges. From K Kelly’s portfolio:



Views of Sisowath Quay and the Tonle Sap River from the top of FCC, a bar-restaurant on the river. River-side seats at the top floor of this colonial-style establishment is a good place for happy hour. To the left of the 2nd photo, downriver, is the confluence of the Tonle with the Mekong.


This beautiful old building on Sothearos is currently undergoing restoration efforts to become a hotel-restaurant with direct access to the FCC.


Cyclos, perhaps around 300 left in Phnom Penh, round up for the night across the street from the National Museum. This is the best way to secure their only belonging and means of livelihood.


The National Museum off street 178 is a trove of artifacts unfortunately haphazard in collection, display and description. The courtyard is a peaceful haven for reading.



The Royal Palace on Sothearos Blvd. It was built in 1866 after the capital was moved to Phnom Penh from Oudong, and occupied by the Kings of Cambodia except during the Khmer Rouge period.


And this is Psar Thmei, currently getting a facelift. It was built in 1935 on a swamp lake area that was drained that still today gets wet season flooding.


The “phone booth” is where young people are often seen congregating, to connect with their group dates. With competing mobile companies limiting traffic to and from their exchanges, it’s sometimes just easier to find a phone with the same exchange as the mobile you need to reach.

Updated in April 2008 to include new developments:


The Independence Monument (Vimean Aikreach) on Sihanouk and Norodom Blvds was built in the centre of the city in 1958 after independence from France. There’s a pedestal inside with a ceremonial flame lit by royal or high-level officials for national celebrations. It got its facelift in 2007 with a fountain and light show.


The new fountains are now finished at the Vietnamese Memorial Park, on Sothearos Blvd. The lights and streams are synchronised to pop music. During the Khmer New Year (2008) these fountain areas turned into impromptu ‘club scenes’ complete with Khmer-style DJ-ing (popping CDs into the player).


A new monument to Buddhism was erected late in 2007 in front of Naga Casino and Hun Sen Park, on Sisowath Blvd.


And a tribute to Khmer’s musical heritage now stands in the median on Sisowath in front of Cambodiana and Himawari Hotels. What he has in his hands looks like a very old tror sraor (stringed vertical fiddle).

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: Cambodia, cyclo, National Museum, Phnom Penh, Royal Palace, travel

Phnom Penh ranks in bottom 10th for livability

2 September 2007 by Nathalie Abejero Leave a Comment

Phnom Penh ranked 125 out of 132 cities recently surveyed by The Economist for livability. Criteria include recreational and cultural activity, crime rate, risk of political instability. Just a few changes in the environment can make a big dent in that score, especially with growing interest on attracting foreign investments. People can be especially enthusiastic advocates of change when money is in the horizon. Let’s start with joining the 21st century by improving the communications infrastructure …

Read it here: Where the Grass is Greener

Filed Under: Travels Tagged With: Cambodia, livability, Phnom Penh

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